Tommy Ryan’s burger shop has opened, and it exists because of brisket. More specifically, because of what is left over after selling a lot of it.
At his Hercules barbecue restaurant, Ryan goes through enough brisket that trim inevitably accumulates. Turning that perfectly delicious trim into smashburgers eventually became the foundation for a new restaurant. Tommy’s Burger Co. opened in October in Richmond. The menu is short by design and is built around brisket and chuck smash burgers, fries cooked in beef tallow rendered in house, and a handful of sides.
Tommy’s Burger Co.
12560 San Pablo Ave., Richmond; www.tommysburgerco.com
Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, noon to 8 p.m.
The burger is smashed onto a 60-inch flattop that thrives under the pressure of service, delivering a consistent crust and deep Maillard, burger after burger. It tastes boldly of beef, balanced by the American cheese, a soft bun, and classic toppings. The restaurant reflects Ryan’s early experience in burger restaurants as well as his background as a pitmaster.
The burger shop is Ryan’s second venture. His first began in his driveway during the pandemic. After being laid off from his job as a kitchen manager, Ryan started selling barbecue plates out of his driveway on weekends, posting on Instagram to see who might be interested. The first time Ryan posted, about 30 people responded, each paying $20 for a plate with two meats and two sides. He sold out in a few hours.
“I was doing a thousand, fifteen hundred dollars in four to six hours, by myself,” Ryan said. “Every week it got bigger.”
That momentum led Ryan to operate a food truck at the Ford Point Building in Richmond, the historic waterfront complex that includes Craneway Pavilion. To make the leap, he sold his RV and his motorcycle within days of each other, raising about $40,000 to buy a larger smoker.
“I was all in,” he said.
Ryan opened Tommy’s BBQ Company at Ford Point on the Fourth of July in 2021. When food vendors were later displaced from the site, Ryan moved the operation to Hercules, where Tommy’s BBQ Company opened a permanent brick-and-mortar in 2023.
“We already had the lease signed for Hercules, but that was going to be my second location,” Ryan said, “but I’m not mad about it now because it pushed me in a better direction.”
That stability eventually made room for something new.
The idea for a burger shop grew out of a practical problem. Barbecue generates a lot of trim, especially brisket trim, and Ryan was already making as much sausage as he could.
“The more brisket you sell, the more trim you have,” Ryan said. “I said, if we opened a burger restaurant, we would have zero waste.”
Burgers are deeply personal to Ryan, who grew up around them. His parents ran The Original Red Onions in El Sobrante and Pinole, and he spent afternoons helping out after school. Barbecue was something he shared with his father on the weekends, traveling to eat it rather than cooking it at home. Culinary school came later, but Ryan says burgers and barbecue were never really taught there.
“My first memories of cooking were burgers,” Ryan said, “I’ve known how to do that since I was 12.”
At Tommy’s Burger Co., the patties are made of a brisket and chuck blend, fortified with additional brisket trim from the barbecue operation. The result is a richer, beefier burger.
“Nobody does brisket and chuck burgers,” Ryan said. “We add even more brisket. You can’t beat that flavor.”
The fries follow the same logic: reduce waste, maximize flavor. They are cooked in beef tallow rendered in house from brisket fat, rather than highly refined versions sold commercially. Ryan prefers the stronger beef flavor achieved from rendering the fat himself. The restaurant relies heavily on third-party delivery platforms, and Ryan tested fries by letting them sit to see which held up best.
“Whether it’s DoorDash’s fault or not, if the food’s bad when it gets there, it’s our fault,” he said.
Chicken sandwiches, onion rings, and sweet potato fries are cooked in canola oil for guests who want an alternative. Ryan sources the buns from New York Bakery in Richmond’s Iron Triangle. The buns are fresh and local, but they have a short shelf life.
“They don’t last long,” Ryan said. “They’re down the street, so I can pick them up every day.”
A double cheeseburger combo with tallow fries and a drink costs $23.16 after tax. Beef is expensive, especially brisket. Labor costs continue to rise, along with utilities and delivery fees. Ryan is candid about the trade-offs.
“If we still want to be here, we have to charge what we need to charge,” he said. “I’d never try to rip anyone off.”
Ryan said he could reduce prices by shrinking portions or switching to less expensive meat, but he is not interested in doing that.
“I could make a cheaper burger,” Ryan said, “Smaller, cheaper meat. But it would be way worse.”
Running two restaurants has also forced Ryan to learn how to let go. Between the barbecue and burger restaurant, he now employs over 20 people. Early on, he tried to do almost everything himself.
“I used to do 95% of the work,” Ryan said. “I realized I can’t grow if I do that.”
When hiring, he prioritizes trust and reliability over experience. Quality is of utmost importance to Ryan, especially when customers are paying premium prices.
Ryan recalled that, while training a new hire, “One guy asked, ‘What do they expect, perfection?’ And I said: ‘Yeah. That’s what they’re paying for.’”
Ryan’s family remains closely involved in the businesses. His wife, Lola Ryan, contributes pastries at the barbecue restaurant, and his father, Terry Ryan, often helps carve the meats. Ryan credits his father with shaping his approach to cooking and hospitality.
At the same time, his life outside the restaurants has changed. Ryan has a one-year-old daughter, and his wife worked the register while nine months pregnant during the early days in Hercules. Balancing that with his work has been one of the more difficult lessons.
“I’m addicted to working,” Ryan said. “It’s my peace. But I need to spend more time at home.”
For now, growth means refinement rather than expansion. Ryan plans to roll out a fuller menu later this winter, add a few specialty burgers, and smooth out operations. A third restaurant is not currently on the agenda.
“I think we’ve got a really good burger,” he said. “I just want to make sure we do it right.”
